Best Cendol in Penang

There has been a long debate on whether the best Cendol (otherwise spelled as Chendol or Chendul) comes Melaka or Penang. For me, the winner still goes to the original Penang Road Cendol. What's a trip to Penang without the Penang Road Cendol? You can't believe it, but my Dad and I love it so much that we could have it everyday when we are in Penang. Yes, it's unhealthy, but how often do we travel to Penang?

Although Cendol has become a common form of dessert in Singapore, I can't find the perfect one after tasting this one. This authentic Penang Cendol is located in a side lane call Lebuh Keng Hwee, off Penang Road. 

This street stall history dates back as early as my Dad's childhood days. Apparently the stall has been around since 1945. There are two stalls in the lane. There are many stories on the competition between the two. But the winner is clear and evident from the queue. Even the colour of the Cendol of the winner stall looks more appetising. 

With the success, you may be expecting this in a shop, or at least coffee shop, but no, this authentic stall still operates in a push-cart stall. 

You can either choose to stand on the street to have your bowl of Cendol, or order it into a coffee-shop just slightly down the street (middle of the street, same side as the stall) to enjoy it in the comfortably seated. I believe this coffee-shop belongs (or rented) to the cendol owner as it's all decorated with photos of celebrities visiting the fame stall. Do note that there is also another coffee-shop located at the start of the street. Do not go to this coffee-shop just to have your cendol as they will charge you 20cents more to have your cendol inside there, which also serves other food.  

Cendol is made from a combination of coconut milk (santan), a worm-like jelly made from rice flour with green food colouring (from the pandan leaf), shaved ice and gula melaka (palm sugar). It's not easy to get the cendol - the worm-like jelly that is the right texture nowadays. Those pre-packed ones factory-made ones are hopeless. Not easy to find one that is home-made or hand-made these days 

There is also a cendol shop that is at Komtar Walk, just a few steps away from Komtar (located from the linked bridge down Komtar) and this original stall at Lebuh Keng Kwee. I was told it belongs to the same owner. Mainly targeted to the tourists and tour groups, the shop have seats in an air-conditioned and nicely decorated cafe environment. Believe that the pricing would be higher as well. For us, we still prefer the original authentic stall. We didn't even give it any chance of trying it even though it's just a few more steps away. Psychologically, I believe that the original stall is still the best. 

Snew's Rating: 4.8 / 5

There is so much comparison between Cendol from Melaka and Cendol from Penang. The conclusion winner still goes to Penang Cendol, and particularly, this stall in Penang Road. Although they taste similar, but Cendol in Melaka has the rich taste of gula melaka and coconut milk, taking after the Nonya Peranakan taste. Penang Cendol also has Gula Melaka syrup in it, it doesn't have the over-powering sweet taste, and the coconut milk just make it perfect combination. 

Penang Road Famous Teochew Chendul

Lebuh Keng Kwee,
(Off Penang Road)
Opening Hours : Mon – Fri 10:30am - 7:00pm
                         Sat – Sun 10:00am - 7:30pm

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Best Char Koay Teow 炒粿條 in Penang

During our trip to Penang last year, we tried like like 6-7 different Char Koay Teow (also spelled as Char Kway Teow) from different stalls. We must have been mad! But for Papa Snew who's first time in Penang, this was not too much of a crazy thing to do! 

Lorong Selamat Char Koay Teow

The best Char Koay Teow  no doubt, goes to the famous Lorong Selamat Char Koay Teow. The signature identity is that the stall owners are frequently seen wearing goggles while frying the Char Koay Teow. Hence, they are better known in the Internet as the "goggle sisters".

While waiting for the Char Koay Teow, we also ordered Fried Oyster Omelette (Oh Chien 蚵煎). The taste is good although it taste slightly different from the one in Singapore, although I can't really describe how it is different. 

To quench our thirst, we also ordered Ice Kachang. Ice Kachang in Penang is served with a scoop of Ice-cream. This is passable. The best Ice Kachang in Penang is found in a coffeeshop, call Kek Seng Cafe in Penang Road which I tried in my previous trips. 

Here comes our main lead of the meal - our Char Kway Teow.

The Chinese believe that a good dish must have enough "Wok Hei" - meaning the fire must be big, or just enough to achieve a smoky taste. This could only done if the dish is cooked using charcoal and only experienced chefs with good skills are able to achieve this taste.

In addition, to ensure that every plate of Char Koay Teow is cooked just right, it has to be cooked in small portions, that is, every plate should be individually fried. However, to strike a balance between taste and efficiency, I believe they cook 2-3 plates together due to the demand.

I must say, this is just the perfect taste that I wanted. I won't dare to say I'm a food specialist, but having tasted Penang Char Koay Teow since young, I wouldn't settle anything less than a good plate of Penang Char Koay Teow  The Singapore version is always too sweet (with too much sweet sauce), and too much yellow noodles in it to be called a Char Koay Teow. Penang Char Koay Teow is cooked with lard instead. Unhealthy as it is, the lard taste should not be over-powering but yet brings out a nice aroma to the dish.

I was told that the lunch queue for this stall takes more than 1 hour. We were lucky that we went after lunch hour, about 2+pm, and waited no more than 20 minutes. Negative publicity has circulated in the Internet on this Char Koay Teow stall. There was even a FaceBook group started  to boycott this stall due to its rude and arrogant service. I guess for visitors coming from KL and as far as Singapore, we're not too bothered by it. Like any other of the guests, we just want our long-awaited plate of Penang Char Koay Teow.

Kafe Heng Huat
108, Lorong Selamat,
10400 Penang

Opens: 11am to 5.30pm (Close on Tuesday)

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Jiufen 九份, Taiwan

I have heard so much about Jiufen. Missed visiting it on our first trip to Taipei. Hence, I decided that we not only needed to make a trip there, but also spend two nights at the Mingsu 民宿 (bed & breakfast).

Jiufen 九份, sometimes spelled as Chiufen or Jioufen is about 1 to 1.5hours from Taipei. There are two ways to get to Jiufen from Taipei. One way is by Keelung 基隆 bus 1062, heading towards Jinguashi 金瓜石 outside Zhongxiao Fuxing 忠孝復興 MRT Station Exit 1. Travelling by bus would probably takes about 1.5hours. 

The second way is taking a 45-minute train journey from Taipei Main Station and then change to a 15-minute bus ride from Ruifang Station. This is a faster way, and the route we took. For more information on how to go about this route, refer to my post on Ruifang 瑞芳.

It was raining slightly when we reached Jiufen. Like what most other tourists did as they alighted the bus, was to buy an umbrella at a stall just infront of the bus-stop. A long umbreall was only NT100 (S$4). Armed with the umbrella and luggage, we proceeded to look for our Mingsu 民宿 at Windsor B&B 温莎堡景观民宿 (which I will blog on separately). Because of the rain, there was not much of a view, only misty and foggy sight. Luckily, I manage to shoot a better shot of  Jiufen when the weather clears up.

We started exploring Jiufen after taking a short rest. Jiufen is characterized by it's windy streets and steps with shops and eateries on both sides.

If you are staying overnight at Jiufen, I would recommend to leave the suitcase at the Taipei hotel and just bring a hand luggage with necessities for your stay at Jiufen only. You wouldn't want to be carrying big luggage up and down the narrow streets and flight of steps.

Some of the interesting street food:

These two shops - 九份传统鱼丸 and 九份老面店 is recommended by Windsor B&B.

The beef noodles served at 九份老面店 is not bad. We mistaken the first corner shop at the start of the Jiufen street to be the shop that was recommended. Although there were many tourists in that shop (probably due to its prominent location), it was not as good this one. However, the best beef noodle in Taipei is at Yongkang Street (which I will blog about it later).

Up next is the battle of Taro Balls 芋丸. The Taro rice balls is something similar to Singapore glutinous rice balls 汤圆. The Taro Balls here are smaller in size, serve in a mixture of sweet potato and taro balls, cooked in sweet soup, instead of ginger or peanut soup. The texture of the balls is also different, which is difficult to describe in words. So, the only way is to try it!

First is Lai Ah Po Yu Yuan 赖阿婆芋圆. This is a very popular shop, occupying 3 shop space at the main Jiufen Street.

The other popular one is Ah Gan Yi Yu Yuan 阿柑姨芋圆. This is a staircase up from the main Jiufen street, in what looks like a dilapidated shop.  After we enter the shop and purchase a bowl, we have to walk deeper into a path, leading to the seating area.

So VERDICT?? Both selling at NT50 (S$2.20), I prefer Ah Gan Yi Yu Yuan 阿柑姨芋圆 for the richer yam flavour. However, Papa Snew prefer Lai Ah Po Yu Yuan 赖阿婆芋圆 as he prefers just the rice balls to be colourful, and doesn't have an over-powering yam taste. So, I guess it's individual preference. In anyway, Taro Rice Ball is now a signature street food in Jiufen. So, it's a MUST TRY!

Some other interesting street food:

Top Row is Century Egg and Red Meat Dumpling 紅糟肉圓.
Bottom Row showcase an assortment of Balls - Octopus Balls and Meat Balls.

Snails anyone? I don't think this is escargot.

We saw a shop selling braised 卤 dishes - an assortment of meat and vegetables. There were many people patronising this shop. When we walked passed it again during a Saturday morning, the queue was up to the steps. I wonder if it's really that good. For NT30 a dish, I guess this also partly explain the queue.

Most of the shops at Jiufen close around 6+pm in the evening. Windsor's owner recommended a few tea houses -  that opens till late. We choose the famous Ah Mei Tea House 阿妹茶楼 which is known for its crowd on weekends. A must-go place for Japanese tourists.

The favourite spot for every photographer.

Other than tea, the place also serves alcohol. I guess this is to cater to the Ang Moh tourists?
I do really like the rustic interior decor.

Well, I must say the food is not too bad. Can't complain since this is one of the few place that is open at night. I must agree with comments over the Internet that the prices are pretty steep. Averagely, the tea starts from NT500-NT1000.

A touristy place that guests visit for tea appreciation with good seaview. But guess what? There's not much of a view at night. So, to us, it's one of the places of "been there, done that". We'll probably try the other tea houses the next time we visit Jiufen. Below are a few other interesting ones that we saw.

I would really recommend visiting Jiufen to anyone who is going to Taipei. In fact, if you are able to spend at least one night there, it will be perfect. The rustic and nostalgic atmosphere would bring out the other side of New Taipei. THUMBS UP JIUFEN 九份!!!

One thing to note, I would not recommend going to Jiufen on a weekend or holiday season. It's so crowded that you may not even get a seat up the bus, and you wouldn't want to squeeze through the crowd in the already narrow street. Would you?

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Ruifang 瑞芳，Taiwan

From Taipei, to travel to Jiufen 九份 by train, you would need to pass through Ruifang 瑞芳. Ruifang is a small township and a district in New Taipei City. It is also the gateway to Jiufen and Jinguashi 金瓜石, which used to be a Gold mining area. I heard that there are still some Gold beneath Jiufen and Jinguashi! But forget trying to dig the ground when you are there.

The train journey from Taipei Main Station to Ruifang Station 瑞芳车站 takes about 45 minutes. I would recommend to book the train journey in advance and get a reserved seating which is pretty comfortable. Cost about NT59-NT76 (S$2.50-S$3.30). My friend travelled on a peak weekend and the train was so packed that she hardly even have a space to stand!

From Ruifang, we transferred to a Keelung Bus to Jiufen. The bus stop is just outside the train station, at the corner of the road, just few steps away from the Welcome 顶好 Supermarket. Both bus 1062 (which is the same bus from Taipei) and bus 788 would stop here and proceed towards Jiufen. The journey takes about 15 minutes uphill and we could just tap our store-value EasyCard. You will be amaze by the skillfulness of the driver on how he maneuver the huge vehicle through the narrow and windy path uphill.

Bus Service Information

If you have luggage or just too lazy to take the public bus, you can try taking a taxi from the taxi terminal on the left once you exit the train station. The taxi standard rate to go Jiufen is NT180 and will stop just outside the 7-Eleven at Jiufen. However, if you want them to take you right to the doorstep of your Mingsu 民宿 (bed & breakfast) at Jiufen (we stayed at Windsor B&B 温莎堡), it will cost NT200.

You could also tour the nearby attractions around Ruifang District by taxi. The listed price are all stated clearly on the board. For us, we still prefer to rent a vehicle with a driver who act as our guide on a road trip along the North East Coast (which I will blog later).

On our journey back to Taipei, we had some time before the train departure timing. Hence we walk around the popular Ruifang Food Street 瑞芳美食街. The night food street was more bustling than the day. We passed by it our our bus journey to Keelung Night Market one of the nights.

This is a covered food street with stalls. It was in about 2+pm and the stalls were just preparing for their business with not much customers yet. 

There was a long queue at the this street stall 阿霞龍鳳腿, selling 龍鳳腿 (literally translated as Dragon Phoenix Drumstick) just outside the covered food street. They are selling Fried Glutinous Rice Rolls and "Dragon Phoenix Drumstick" - which is a combination of fish paste and minced pork wrapped in bean curd skin. There were photos of celebrities patronising the stall on the street cart.  It's really yummy and only cost NT10 (S$0.50) stick. Regretted only buying 2 sticks and not more! 

I would recommend to walk through the food street, especially as a night market. It would be a good place to find dinner if you are spending the night at Jiufen as most shops at Jiufen closes in about 6-7pm.

Below are some interesting sights at Ruifang. The first picture on the right are spring onions. They are really much bigger and "healthier" then those found in Singapore. The right bottom picture shows the root of some plant that a hawker is peddling. I'm not sure what the root is meant for. Is it to brew soup? Do drop me a comment if you do know.

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CityInn III and Hotel 73

CityInn III & Hotel 73 (Taipei Inn Hotel Chain)

Taipei Inn Group of hotel operates the popular CityInn Chain (4 branches), Dandy Hotel (3 branches), Ambience Hotel and Hotel 73. With the exception of Ambience Hotel, most of the hotel in the chain offer are no-frills at a budget price. 

CityInn Taipei Branch III

I was recommended to stay at CityInn, with three of its branches located at Taipei Main Station, and the fourth at Ximending. However, all four hotels are fully booked (direct from the hotel website) when I tried to make the reservation (about a month before our arrival). I managed to find a deluxe room (higher room category) available for 2 of the nights at Branch III and quickly booked it. 

CityInn Branch II and III are located next to each other. About 8 minutes walk from Taipei Main Station or the Metro subway.  

Considering ours is a deluxe room (higher category), the room size is pretty small. Can only fit a queen-size bed and doesn't have much space for our luggage. But well, we aren't in the room most of the time. What matters most is the simplistic design is modern and looks very new. 

The highlight of this no-frill hotel is the full self-service pantry. There's coffee machine, refrigerator, microwave, oven and basic cutlery for guests to use at no additional charge. 

What's more? There is a Laundromat available for long-stay guests. The great news is, there's no additional charges for using the washing machine or dryer. You don't need to dig out your coins to operate any of the machine. 

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Hotel 73

Upon our return from Jiufen, we stayed another 2 nights at Taipei. This time at Hotel 73, also from the Taipei Inn Group. 

Hotel 73 is located at Xinyi Road at the Xinyi District. The location is not as popular as the Main Taipei Station or Ximending. Hotel 73.  However, there is a new subway station - Dongmen station just outside the hotel (2 minutes walk). For me, the location was perfect. The famous Yongkang Street lined with a popular eateries such as the 1st original Din Tai Feng store is located just 5 minutes walk away. 

The style of the hotel is similar to CityInn, with added warmth of a nice wallpaper to give the cosy feel. The toilet also has a bathtub. Hotel 73 gives a more classy feel compared to CityInn.  I would believe that Hotel 73 caters more to business travellers, hence the need for a more executive feel. 

I requested for a window view for our Elite Room and was lucky to be assigned to one with a view. Not much of a view, but at least I feel good with some natural light into the room. The irony is, the double roller blind doesn't black out the room completely during the day. The sun rays was shining bright into the room at 6.30am. 

Breakfast is provided for guests at Hotel 73. However, we were too tired to wake up to try the breakfast. Besides, we were more interested in all the good food at Yongkang Street which I will blog subsequently. 

Snew's Rating:  4.1 / 5

Stay Period: 23-25 Apr 2013 (CityInn Branch III)

                   27-29Apr 2013 (Hotel 73)

I would not hesitate to recommend these two hotels to any visitors to Taipei. With the price tag of  less than S$100 (NT2300), there's nothing more I can ask for. The hotels are new, modern looking, clean, and cosy. 

The only drawback is the room is a bit small, and there's no safe deposit box in the room. Well, luckily it's Taipei and it's pretty safe to carry your valuables around.